As soon as I got to breakfast and ordered my omelet, Mwiga and Butati were walking to the main tent and both were smiling so I knew it would be good news. My omelet arrived just as there boots touched the wooden floor of the main tent. I jumped up from the table and exclaimed, “Is it time to go?” They quickly replied, “Yes!” I raced to put on my gators and grab my gloves from the nearby couch. I turned to the others and squealed, “Let’s go!” The others made a move to follow but I darted off behind Hussain and stayed very close on his heels. I did not want to miss a thing. The others tailed behind but were going at what I thought was a snail’s pace.

We had to cross over a wooden, swinging foot bridge one at a time because the flimsy bridge could only support so much weight and two people would be too much. I quickly crossed and continued to follow Hussain. When we stopped so the others could get a rest, I looked at him and said I would like to continue because the chimps were very close. The group of chimps was fairly large about 20 or so when Mwiga and Butati first came to get us but the group had since split. I did not want to miss seeing them. So Hussain and I continued leaving the other six guests behind with Butati and Mwiga. I was tired of listening to the talkers’ constant running, insipid commentary. It was annoying because they were drowning out the forest sounds, the cicadas’ ringing, and the distant hoots from the chimps. Occasionally, I had to turn around and tell them to be quiet so I could listen to the calls and hoots from the chimpanzees.

At some points the trail became a bit steep and muddy, but not too difficult. We had to cross another stream via another wooden footbridge. Again, we had to cross one at a time. Then we kept walking and hit another steep, muddy stretch and then…there was one female swinging from the tree. Right away I knew she was in estrus by the pink, bulbous, protruding bottom. It was a good sized group – about 10 total including a mother and baby. The baby was sooooo cute with its big pink ears. When the mother was swinging overhead, the sun was so bright behind them that the baby’s ears looked like flaming red flaps – like a red-eared devil baby.

I was able to shift around and stomp through the tick vines and bushes to snap photos. I am not sure how many will be good, but I took a lot. We got to stay with them for about an hour again.

There was one really horny female in obvious estrus by her eye-popping, inflamed genitals. It was quite crazy because she looked like she didn’t know whether she wanted to fuck or poop because there was a nibble of poo protruding from her enlarged bottom as well. Anyway she chose the former and chased after a male in a tree. She kept trying to force her engorged genitals on him. She finally had her way with him because I heard a couple shrill hoots from her as she bounced around on his pecker. The whole encounter lasted all of 10 seconds and then she was off – probably to poop.

The walk back felt short and sweet. After the horrible, rainy, and cold day yesterday, this was truly a gift.

Once we got back to the camp, I drank a coke and sat on the couch laughing happily with Mwiga about the terrific sighting. I also asked him about the school for which I brought a lot of supplies. He suggested that I ask to leave early in the morning tomorrow so I will have time to see the school before I leave at noon. I hope it can be arranged. I also asked if I could volunteer teach in exchange for chimp walks and he said he thought it would be a great idea and that I should email the foundation when I get back and can use the internet. Mwiga has also designed a t-shirt (my only weakness when I travel) so I asked him to bring some to the camp so I could buy some. It is an illustration of Primus, the alpha male, and a female grooming each other. I bought 3 so perhaps one or two lucky people will receive one.

The weather seems quite calm so I think I will go out on the boat at 4:30 for a swim, fish, and tour combo.

Cameron could see the fish jumping in the lake so he took a kayak and his fishing rod out. I got some photos of him fishing. Within an hour he came back with a large Perch, but still not as heavy as the one James caught the other day. I sat in the sand and took lots of photos of a group of Vervet monkeys having a party in the surrounding trees. Stupidly, I sat in the sand to watch them and became food for the Tsetse flies. I went back to my hut to scratch and scare off my unwanted roommates – the cheeky baboons, and shower.

At 4pm I made my way over to the main tent. They were serving the most delicious brownies. I ate about 4 before we were ready to get on the boat. Big Bird joined us again flying behind only to make another very ungraceful landing on the roof. One day when he comes in for his thumpy, bumpy landing I suspect he will crash through. Big Bird of course swam with them. Only Anne and Pam swam. I did not want to travel with a wet bathing suit so I did not go swimming. I laughed with David and James about absolute nonsense. Then Pam and Anne hollered for me to join them. Anne said just take off your clothes and jump in. I said OK, but told everyone on the boat, “NO PICTURES – it will be enough of a horror show – I don’t want it documented!!!” So I stripped and jumped in. Then Big Bird came in too. He kept following me – the little perv. So I splashed him in his face to get rid of him. After we had our swim, we got back on the boat. Pam let me use her towel to dry off since I did not have one. Then I put my clothes back on and we moved on to another spot for fishing.

James held the fishing rod while David and I fished with the hand held line. I was the first to catch a yellow belly, which Mwiga told me to hold and kiss because the tradition is the first to catch a fish must kiss it. So I followed tradition and puckered up. Then Dave and I caught 2 umbanga fish at the same time. Umbanga fish are pretty small so they will be food for our mascot Big Bird who sat on the roof happily counting the fish. Then I caught another yellow belly. Next Dave caught a small silver skinned perch. Then I felt my line tug again and it felt pretty big. It was pretty heavy and by this time the fishing line was starting to hurt my hands – the line was nut cutting my skin, but the sides of my hands and fingers were feeling tender. But I kept up my hand over hand quick pulling technique up until I finally pulled in the fish and it was a huge yellow belly. Then Dave got a yellow belly too to complete the day. Unfortunately James did not catch a fish, but the Tanganyika Perch that he caught the day before holds the record for our group – 6 kgs. David caught the most variety of fish – 1 umbanga, 1 silver perch, and 1 yellow belly. I have the record for the most fish caught – 4 yellow bellies and 2 umbangas. When we got to shore, I fed the 2 umbangas to Big Bird. So for dinner, sashimi and pan fried yellow belly will be added to the menu.

The storm we had on the first night had destroyed the roof of the rock bar at the side of the camp. The pitch of the roof was wrong so the water soaked into the thatch roof instead of running off. The weight of the water made the whole thing collapse. Apparently thatch roofs have to be set at a 45 degree angle—so remember that when you are cast away on a deserted island and building a hut. The staff, however, like busy little fairies had cleaned up the bar area and got it spic and span and ready for business for our last night.

It was just beautiful. We climbed up these lighted stairs and the bar was made of large stones. It was simply beautiful. There were lovely, comfortable couches and the view was terrific. We feasted on sashimi, bruschetta, and sweet potato fries. Butati and Mwega joined us and told more chip tales to our delight and before leaving us, they both performed their chimp hoots and calls. What a great day. These guys are a hoot.

Dinner was delicious as usual. We had beef fillet, roasted potatoes, roasted peppers and eggplant, and lemon merengue pie.

I floated back to my hut. I got ready for bed and then went into the bathroom to brush my teeth. By mistake, I forgot the flashlight by the sink, but by the time I realized it I was too lazy to get out of bed to retrieve it. I listened to the bush pigs as they gobbled the shrubs and grass around my hut – a usual occurrence. Then all of a sudden they were silent and I could hear their little hooves scamper off. Then the night sounds stopped and there was complete silence. I sat up in bed, but it was too dark to see anything. “Fuck..the flashlight!!!” The flashlight is supposed to be used to shine a light outside the tent in a circular motion to let the staff know there is a problem in the tent. There is also an air horn, but that too was in my dressing area behind my bed. Then I heard this purr sound and knew it was the leopard. It sounded very close. Then I heard his paw steps on the wooden walkway between my bedroom and bathroom. I got very quiet and did not move for the rest of the night or sleep for that matter. Wowsa!!!!! A close encounter of the furry kind!!!

I love Mahale and will definitely go back. I hear October is the best month for seeing the chimps so…